SANTA TERESA

Santa Teresa might very well be Rio’s Silverlake, a neighborhood known for its slightly gritty bohemian vibe, an enclave for artists, urban  pioneers, and dreamers. Built in the hills above Rio, teetering on top of the yet to be gentrified favelas, it’s still a bit rough around the edges. A destination where taxi cab drivers might refuse to go, Santa Teresa’s roads  are windy and under construction. Cut off from the beach lands below, it feels like another land.

But, gentrification  is seeping in. First, the boutique Hotel Santa Teresa opened. Then, it got featured in a Kate Spade guide. Needing a change from the perfect beach vibe of Copacabana and wanting to experience a more “real” Rio, we headed into the hills.

The easiest place to start the journey was from the Santa Teresa hotel, a deluxe boutique destination or the well healed jet setters. After a slightly lost detour, our taxi cab dropped us off in front of the wooden gate. We entered a magical, lush wonderland, wandering the grounds of the former coffee plantation. We were inspired to indulge in the serene spa setting, but realized that we hadn’t brought our swimsuits to enjoy the beckoning lap pool.

Santa Teresa awaited and we reluctantly left and we made our way down the hill. The neighborhood awakens around noon, and as of 10:30 am we were the only ones wandering about. We idled about on the main strip, photographing murals, graffiti, and random details. The views were incredible, but the layered history was the more compelling sight.

Kate Spade’s guide inspired us to visit the local coffee shop, where we took a midday nourishment break. Coffee, juice, Acai kept us going on the hot day. We toured opulent mansions and private art collections which had once been opulent castles and now stood as historical monuments. We hung out with fun-loving locals, enjoying brazillian barbeque and drinks celebrating on national holiday. We popped into art shops (more on these soon) seeing crafts and paintings created by the neighborhood’s artistic community. We did nothing and everything, savoring the culture and the exuberance of life.